Thursday, July 22, 2010
WE HAVE NOT ABANDONED THE TOUR BLOG!
BUT STAY TUNED!!!!! A GOLDIN OPPORTUNITY to read the blog is just around the corner!
Sunday, July 4, 2010
Food, Oh-So-Glorious Food
Those of you who’ve seen me eat know that over the course of a day, I can get through a fair amount. Some would say that that’s an understatement, but I’ll leave it at that for now. Anyway, suffice it to say that this tour hasn’t exactly been a diet as far as I’m concerned -- though I’m perfectly happy with the ubiquitous Doner Kabob stands when I want a midnight snack (chicken or lamb, sliced off the spit in front of you, all wrapped inside a deliciously crispy piece of pita bread with lettuce, onions, and a creamy garlic sauce) the local food is so consistently delicious that it’s too good to pass up.

In Strasbourg, for instance, we stopped at a local café, where the grand total of four menu items were presented to us on a blackboard. I was lucky enough to choose the gnocchi au gratin: while Dillon’s vegetable pastilla (pictured in Dillon’s post) was delicious, with its delicate and crispy exterior surrounding green vegetables scented with cinnamon and nutmeg, the gnocchi were truly memorable.
The first thing you notice as the waiter brings the dish to your table is the still-bubbling cheese on the outsides of the plate. The dish is piping hot, and the smell of cheese whets your appetite. As for the gnocchi themselves, resting underneath the layer of cheese and cream, I think Brett described them best as “pillows.” They’re light and fluffy, but with a firm texture. The single perfect bite was one from a corner of the dish -- a piece of burnt cheese, one of the said pillows, a piece of cashew nut, a caper or two, and a small piece of tuna. The texture was wonderful, and the saltiness of the capers, along with the nuttiness of the cashews, made for a perfect combination of flavors. For me, a near-perfect dish.
Later that same day, after a short walk, we came across a café with somewhere between 20 and 30 kinds of gelato. The day was hot, and that was exactly what we were all craving, so I had two scoops, one rose-flavored, and one violet-flavored. Not the most macho of all possible choices, maybe, but it was too tempting and unusual a combination to pass up. (And, for those wondering, the nicely manicured hands below are not my own.)

The rose was creamy and sweet -- I didn’t know that a taste could be so similar to a smell, but if you could taste rose-scented perfume, that would be the taste of that gelato. Not my favorite, overall. But the violet-flavored scoop was really something else: tangy, flowery, sweet, but not too sweet -- on a hot day, it was the perfect refresher.
The next day, Brett and I sat by the foot of Strasbourg’s imposing cathedral for dinner. For my meal, I ordered a tarte flambee, which was described to me as a sort of quasi-pizza. That was indeed what it was -- a pizza minus the sauce and cheese.
In place of those was a light cream sauce with onions and ham atop a paper-thin crust. Lighter on the stomach than a typical pizza, it hit the spot as we watched the sun set on the magnificent cathedral.The next day, we were headed off to Berlin. Exhausted from the day’s travel, I was not in the best of moods. But as my parents know quite well, the surest way to stop me from being cranky is to feed me. And feed myself I did. Dillon and I shared an enormous -- truly massive -- platter of grilled meat, French fries, and vegetables.
The meat came in all shapes and sizes, ribs, steaks, chicken breasts -- we had our work cut out for us. But, in the most literal sense, we cleaned up. With food on the sides of my mouth, I wasn’t exactly looking my best, but I was certainly satisfied, and I know Dillon was, too. So, all in all, the meal was a resounding success.
Best of all, those meals are just the tip of the iceberg (and I’m sure it reflects something about me that at this moment, that expression just makes me think of lettuce). I could go on about the delicious schnitzel all through Germany, or the superb pork and sauerkraut in Austria, or the surprisingly tasty “boiled mush” here in Slovenia, but this entry’s already gone on a while longer than anticipated, and I can’t expect everyone to be as enthralled by food as I am. Still, maybe these descriptions can give those not traveling with us one more aspect -- a taste -- of this incredible world tour.
Wednesday, June 30, 2010
Speaking Chinese in La Petite France
Aside from their great skin and astonishing bone structure, the people of Iceland possess another beautiful quality: nearly all of them speak perfect English. This of course did not stop Dave Sawicki from learning Icelandic for fun, which amused the linguistics major to no small end. As much as I wished for some delightfully confounding miscommunications in London, I left England without such pitfall. And though we were in Amsterdam for but a day, the Dutch seem to take after Scandinavians in their mastery of English. In Luxembourg the gears of French began to turn. I grew frustrated as it would take me a good five minutes to construct a grammatically unblemished sentence only to lapse into Chinese if my conversation continued any further. But even with my tongue and my mind on different continents, I survived easily.
Our stay in Saarland put the spotlight on Dave once again. From song intros at concerts to disgruntled cab drivers on the side of the road, Dave handled all our official German business While our English song introductions fall of ears deaf to English, Dave's German humor had the Saarland audiences calling for two or three encores every night. No language can stop Dave, and I cannot imagine us surviving Germany without him. That is, until I had to. On our last night, which we spent in Saarlouis, the Dins split up into six different homestays, all organized by German-American friendship groups. Although we had the comfort of meeting in the town square with several bilingual members, not every host family could speak English.
Kirk and I stayed with one such family. Their teenage daughter Susanna spoke conversational English, but she soon had to leave for a theater rehearsal, leaving Kirk and me at home with a vocabulary of "Danke schön," "Auf Wiedersehen," and "Weis bier." Using hand signals, we decided to eat a quick bite before our evening concert. Yet, the time did not pass idly, and our host made jokes about the inferiority of French sausage. An untainted happiness lingered about her, as she laughed after most every one of her sentences. Maybe she was thinking of the fact that we could not understand a word of what she said. Still, I used a map to show her where Kirk and I live, as well as Boston and our tour itinerary. She then made it clear she wanted to come along with us in Kirk's gargantuan suitcase, which during the easyJet crisis was nicknamed "The Star Destroyer." After our concert, our party met up with Lee and Justin at their homestay for a delicious meal in the cool summer night. Our host mom let us know that she would speak English the next time we came to Saarlouis. We reciprocated the offer, vowing to learn German before our next visit.
In Strasbourg, I could feel my French improving. Still, anything close to rapid fire would send my mind into Mandarin mode, as I blabbered mutant sentences that have confused grammar and a collusion of vocabularies. What a mess. After our expedition to the top of the gothic cathedral, we headed to a small café for lunch in the shade. I did my best to help our table order, but I cannot recall the name of this delicious vegetarian dish I ordered. It did taste divine, though.
After leaving the café, I heard a tongue all to familiar. "哈佛?" A Chinese-speaker had read the text on my crimson t-shirt, which is a translation for Harvard. The man, leader of a Taiwanese tour group, soon struck up conversation with me as well as Sam Galler, who has impeccable Mandarin. As the tour group slowly coagulated around us, we heard calls for a song, as Sam never wastes the opportunity to mention we are members of an a cappella group. Defying convention, we gave an impromptu curbside performance. Exactly half of us had no idea what was going on, as our group of eight included all four Mandarin-speaking Dins. After the 3:30 minute song, we endured what seemed like several hours of picture-taking.
In the end, the tour guide exchanged business cards with us and invited us to Taiwan, offering to pay for all our accommodations. But soon it was back to choppy French, and now in Berlin I am once again at a loss for how to say anything at all. But these stories would mean nothing if we all understood each other perfectly. And so, while I may work towards improving my powers of communication, I am deeply thankful for the colorful shortcomings.
Sunday, June 27, 2010
If Only Every Day Could Be National Day...
Sunday, June 20, 2010
It's A Small World After All
But as I began running into friends everywhere – in the Tube, a restaurant, a pub, a jazz club – it became clear that the Harvard gods were watching over us, purposefully setting up small-world experiences. Even crazier was bumping into an alumnus of my high school, now a Harvard grad, at our final gig in the UK, at the Stowe School, hours outside London. And as if that weren’t enough, his friend, who was also there, studied under my high school band director when he was in (a different) high school.
Yesterday, however, some of us learned how small the world is a bit more literally. When we encountered some difficulties on our flight from London to Dusseldorf (en route to Luxembourg) on the ironically-named EasyJet, half of us ended up flying to Amsterdam. Suddenly, the world seemed to fit in the palm of our hand, and in a hop, skip, and a jump, we were in the Netherlands.

After dropping our bags at the hostel in Amsterdam, we headed into the heart of town, grabbing some dinner and walking through the Red Light District. The canals were beautiful by moonlight, and the energy on the streets was contagious.

Starkly contrasting the EasyJet attitude, the people in Amsterdam were wonderful. Two small examples: (1) the bus driver let us ride for free to the hostel since he saw we were struggling with our bags; and (2) a woman on a bicycle rung her bell as she passed, looked back, and smiled. Today we took a great walk around the city, admiring the canals, passing through an outdoor market, and ending at the Van Gogh Museum (where, by the way, we bumped into some more of our Harvard friends!).

Now, as I sit on the train to Luxembourg, the last 24 hours are a bit of a blur. The globe, as I’m sure I’ll learn first-hand over the next two months, is enormous. Yet, as the first nine days of tour (and Disneyworld) have taught me, it’s a small world after all.
p.s. A very happy Fathers Day to all our Din Dads!
Saturday, June 19, 2010
Stompin' at the Stowe, and a Not-So-easyJet
Since I hadn’t the slightest idea what to expect, my first thought was that I was in the midst of some BBC-special-induced dream. It dawned on me soon enough, however, that the Stowe School -- what I had imagined as an urban, brick music school of some sort -- was actually an immense, prestigious, and, what’s more, extremely beautiful institution.
I would be lying if I said I wasn’t a little intimidated: in my t-shirt and jeans, I felt more than a little underdressed compared to the smartly uniformed students walking about. Still, we received a very warm welcome, and we were soon whisked away to the south portico, where we enjoyed a delightful champagne lunch and looked out onto the vista before us, which was, just like everything else about Stowe, as grand and impressive as could be.
We proceeded to stroll around the grounds for an hour, thinking about what exactly Harvard life would be like if the Yard were replaced by Stowe's lakes and meadows. It would certainly be a bit of a change from the Harvard I know.
Among the many other impressive structures housed by the sprawling grounds was a little Chinese house, standing just where you’d least suspect it.

Incongruous though it was, the Oriental flourishes on the walls and the Chinese characters on the sides of the building (clearly written by someone entirely unacquainted with the writing system) made the stop one of my favorites on the tour.
Also, it was extremely gratifying to me to see a real live specimen of a so-called “folly,” a distinctly British architectural idea that I thought I’d only ever encounter in Agatha Christie novels (to those of you who‘ve read them, you’ll know which one I’m talking about!).
Our next stop was a master class for one of Stowe’s a capella groups. We had a few suggestions for them after their renditions of Don’t Stop Believing and Mack the Knife, but overall, they sounded great. A little while later, it was time for our real performances -- the venue was an august marble hall, whose acoustics were some of the best I’ve ever had the pleasure of singing in. After two 45 minute sets, however, it certainly was a welcome relief to get to dinner … and what a dinner it was! Chicken liver pate with crostini, tender beef fillets with a mushroom leek cream sauce, and a lemon tart with fresh passion fruit. The guests, all decked out in their best dress, were also a sight to behold. I myself discussed with my neighbor the poetry of Hopkins as well as the intricacies of afternoon tea. I sure did feel cultured, I can tell you.
After all was said and done, I think it’s safe to say that we all walked away from the Stowe School quite satisfied. And, to top it all off, the school gave us each our own rooms in a nearby hotel: a luxury of luxuries. SG told me today that he pondered for quite some time last night whether he should sleep on the double or single bed, since most of our rooms had one of each. If that were the hardest decision we ever had to make on this tour, I can’t say I would be too terribly upset.
But, as it’s turned out today, tour can’t remain quite as easy as all that. We woke up at 7AM this morning to catch an 11:30 flight from London’s Gatwick airport to Dusseldorf, Germany, where the plan was to catch a train to Luxembourg. Before we got to the airport, there were some faint stirrings of the misfortunes to come -- Brett warned us that our airline, easyJet, had some strict luggage policies. I was ever so slightly worried, but I thought, oh well, at the very worst we’d have to pay a few more pounds. Hah. A few. As it turns out, easyJet is the most inappropriately-named airline in recent memory. Or in distant memory. Or ever. First of all, their check-in area was a disorganized mob, a throng of impatient passengers milling about rather than standing in an orderly line. But that, alone, wouldn’t be so bad if it weren’t for the airline’s absurd luggage policy. Besides charging 10 pounds for each kilogram of checked baggage above 20 kilograms, they allow only one carry-on item. In other words, Dins with two carry-on bags and a 50+ pound check-in bag were going to have to pay 20 or 30 pounds for the overweight check-in bag, plus 18 pounds to check an extra bag, plus 10 pounds for each kilogram that extra bag weighed. That could easily add up to 100 pounds or more, which is certainly more than three times the price of the plane ticket. Furthermore, the manager we spoke to refused to give us any help whatsoever, saying that there was nothing he could do. And, to put the icing on the easyJet cake, they chose to capitalize only the J in easyJet, an affront that I strongly believe was targeted directly at me. So, all in all, I hereby wish a plague upon all that is easyJet.
In any case, the six of us who could get on the flight without incurring any luggage charges made it on, and the other six found that it would actually be cheaper to buy new tickets to Amsterdam than to fly with us to Dusseldorf, silly as that may be. So at this moment, six Dins are staying the night in the wilds of Amsterdam while six of us have successfully made it to Luxembourg.
For the end of the story, I can only tell the Dusseldorf side, but we arrived safely in Germany and explored the city immediately around the train station, sampling the local Turkish food (mmm…. schwarma) and potato pancakes (mmm…. grease and applesauce). All that was left was to board the train to Luxembourg, which we did in style. Sitting in first-class seats and watching the German countryside pass by, illuminated by the evening light, is truly an experience unlike any other. There, I took what was certainly one of the most contented (and, after the stresses of the morning, I think well-deserved) nap I’ve taken in quite some time. And thus, finished with our first little trial by fire, we Dins lay ourselves down to sleep. Somewhere out there, our counterparts in Amsterdam are probably getting ready to do the same. I will say, despite our run-in with the patent evil that is easyJet, the day was an enjoyable one. Without a few of these little excitements, what kind of adventure would this tour be, anyway?

